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Terry & Debbie Drive Schmutzi through Mexico

The little blue Cooper S takes on the roads south of the border
By Terry Sayther & Debbie Stuart


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Day 7---

10-21, Huehuetenango, Guatemala to San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico, 2175 miles

We are so happy to be here in Guatemala. It seems like it should be just the same as Mexico, but it is not. The cities are different, the traffic, the people, the clothes,the markets are all different from what we are used to seeing. We took a 40 quetzal taxi ride to a local ruin the first thing this morning and wandered around for awhile. A one quetzal bus ride got us back into town--a much more interesting way to travel, at least short distances.....and we think the taxi guy might of seen us coming. Guatemala is famous for it´s handmade cloth, and Debbie had a great time in the native market examining and buying beautiful woven samples. Guatemalan women weave cloth on a backstrap loom, and then embroider on the top of the weaving. The colors and patterns they use are characteristic of their home villages throughout their country, so if you know the language of the threads you can tell where they are from. Guatemala is much more rugged and mountainous than Mexico and the villages are more isolated ( and individualistic) as a result. What a great country!

Only with great reluctance and a vow to return did we turn north. The border crossing was record easy--but did warrant another insecticide spray for little Schmutzi.

So back to the land of topes! Just about 170km north of the border lies San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, an old mountain town that attracts world wide tourists all year long. Less well known is that it is the center for study of the Lacondon Indians who inhabit the isolated jungles and mountains to the east. The center of this study in San Cristobol is Na Balom--a library, museum, and shelter for these endangered Indians. Occasionally, when one of it´s resident scientists is not in town, they rent out rooms. We were fortunate enough in 1992 to get a room in Na Balom, and we got the same room this time. Wandering the gardens, visiting with the residents, and even sharing a meal with several Lancandon families made our visit very memorable.

 Day 8---

10-22, 2250 miles, San Cristobol to Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas

After a restful morning wandering the streets and gardens of San Cristobol, we headed down off the Chiapan highlands to the capitol of Chiapas, Tuxtla Gutierrez.

Here in Tuxtla, we join the preparations for La Carrera Panamericana--an annual vintage car race that takes 7 days, covers 3000 km, and is the only event of it´s kind in the world. Last year we participated in the race with our 1958 502 BMW (the report on the race is on this website--you´ll like it!) This year we have volunteered to help others in their efforts. We spent the afternoon renewing old friendships and making new ones.

Like all events human, I guess, participants in the race are here for different reasons. Some racers have their racecar built and shipped to Tuxtla, and amazingly enough are then ¨meeting¨ their car for the first time, Others have built their cars, tested it, bonded with it--so, in essence, the cars, pilots, and co-pilots all have their own stories. Today we met old friends, ready to run their cars again--and new ones, hoping just to finish. Two guys from Great Britain spent the afternoon pounding a shock bolt back in place. Our friend, Elke from Germany, is back driving on the only all-woman team. The Carrera is  about personal goals, and that strange, wonderfully exotic, sometimes erotic bond between humans and the road. We have to admit regrets about not being able to race this year--but also gratitude that we can be part of the story. The truth be told, Lil Schmutzi would give them ALL a run for their pesos, I'll bet!! But, alas, she is too young.....

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Terry Sayther Automotive İMMIII. This page was last modified on  03/17/2004 10:11:00 PM   Questions?  Email eags